Monthly Archives: June 2016

Pattern Grading: Hummingbird vs. Felicity

Grading is “a methodical and mathematical process that’a used to “grow” and “shrink” a style to fit a range of customer sizes….Grading is not morphing; it cannot change shape, but only makes an existing shape larger or smaller. (Kathleen Fasabella, … Continue reading

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How to Eliminate Crotch Bunching

Wrap shorts were a trend when I was a teenager (they were called “Hawaiian shorts): ……

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Trueing the Crotch/Rise Intersection (Eliminating “Stabby Crotch”)

Sewing patterns must be “trued” to ensure a smooth edge wherever a seam ends, so that the joined pieces are  ready for the next step in construction.  The top and bottom corners of each pattern edge should be as close as possible to … Continue reading

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How to True a Bikini Panty

Designers sometimes offer free, or almost-free, pdf patterns to let new customers try their product. Yesterday I spent $.99 to try a Little Finch pattern. I chose the Quicker Knickers. This is a cute basic bikini/brief, but unfortunately the grading … Continue reading

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Crotch Width: What Causes Crotch “Smiles”

Fitting pants is challenging because the patternmaker must coordinate SHAPE to MEASUREMENTS to MOVEMENT (sitting, walking). Previously I’ve blogged about CROTCH SHAPE, the angle of the Front Rise and Back Rise the shape of the “hook” going under the crotch. This … Continue reading

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