Category Archives: How To

How to Correct a Mirrored Knit Shorts Pattern

Here’s a quick review of a new free pattern that was released today, the Tupelo knit shorts from SewLikeMyMom.  Like several other pdf kids’ knit pant/legging patterns, it has a mirrored front/back rise, with instructions to adjust the rise height … Continue reading

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Adding “Pouf” with Horsehair Braid

Previously I blogged about my recent haul from Wawak Sewing supply company, including a pair of 144-yard spools of horsehair braid, one white and one black. Then a friend asked me “Why do you need so much?  What do you do … Continue reading

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Free Pattern: Bow Headband

The best thing about sewing is making exactly what you want. I was looking for a free pattern or tutorial online for a “Bunny-ear” or “Dolly-bow” headband….but I couldn’t find one with the specifics I was after: woven fabric (since I have so … Continue reading

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Free Pattern: Wing-Collar Shirt Dickey

Many of my sewing projects are born of necessity, in other words they are “needs” instead of “wants”. This is one of those. My dear friend Allison has a job that requires wearing a uniform smock, and recently management decided that staff … Continue reading

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Simple Preemie Angel Gown: Free Pattern

How to make the easiest,  fastest “angel gowns” for newborns and preemies In my previous post about sewing angel cocoons, I promised to write about sewing angel gowns.  If you sew for charities that provide angel gowns for  the tiniest of … Continue reading

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How to Walk a Sewing Pattern

“Walking” a pattern is the process of matching up stitching lines of each seam, to determine if the seams will line up correctly when sewn in fabric. In some cases the stitching lines will be exactly the same length, which is straightforward … Continue reading

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Another Way to Finish Waist Seams on Dresses

When sewing a gathered skirt to a bodice, I find that these are the  two most common home-sewing-pattern  instruction methods for finishing the seam allowance: 1. Clean-finish couture“: press skirt seam allowance up towards bodice, and press bodice lining seam allowance under (left), … Continue reading

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How to Eliminate Crotch Bunching

Wrap shorts were a trend when I was a teenager (they were called “Hawaiian shorts): ……

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How to True a Bikini Panty

Designers sometimes offer free, or almost-free, pdf patterns to let new customers try their product. Yesterday I spent $.99 to try a Little Finch pattern. I chose the Quicker Knickers. This is a cute basic bikini/brief, but unfortunately the grading … Continue reading

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Crotch Width: What Causes Crotch “Smiles”

Fitting pants is challenging because the patternmaker must coordinate SHAPE to MEASUREMENTS to MOVEMENT (sitting, walking). Previously I’ve blogged about CROTCH SHAPE, the angle of the Front Rise and Back Rise the shape of the “hook” going under the crotch. This … Continue reading

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