Category Archives: Pattern Reviews

The good, the not-so-good, and what I changed

Respect the Grainline

Paying close attention to the grain of fabric is something I was taught to do at a young age. When fabric-shopping, my mom would unwrap a large swath of goods and see how the material would hang, on straight-grain and … Continue reading

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Mini Review: “Sew By Pattern Pieces” #15000 Leggings

What a difference a day makes. Yesterday I blogged about a free kids’ knit shorts pattern that is cut on-the-fold (mirrored front/back) with instructions on how to correct the drafting. Today in a Facebook group there was a discussion about … Continue reading

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How to Correct a Mirrored Knit Shorts Pattern

Here’s a quick review of a new free pattern that was released today, the Tupelo knit shorts from SewLikeMyMom.  Like several other pdf kids’ knit pant/legging patterns, it has a mirrored front/back rise, with instructions to adjust the rise height … Continue reading

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How to Walk a Sewing Pattern

“Walking” a pattern is the process of matching up stitching lines of each seam, to determine if the seams will line up correctly when sewn in fabric. In some cases the stitching lines will be exactly the same length, which is straightforward … Continue reading

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Pattern Grading: Hummingbird vs. Felicity

Grading is “a methodical and mathematical process that’a used to “grow” and “shrink” a style to fit a range of customer sizes….Grading is not morphing; it cannot change shape, but only makes an existing shape larger or smaller. (Kathleen Fasabella, … Continue reading

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How to True a Bikini Panty

Designers sometimes offer free, or almost-free, pdf patterns to let new customers try their product. Yesterday I spent $.99 to try a Little Finch pattern. I chose the Quicker Knickers. This is a cute basic bikini/brief, but unfortunately the grading … Continue reading

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Pants Rise: Shape versus Size

Quick post: Sometimes you can see what’s happening with garment fit by playing with the paper pattern. I came across this free Baby Bloomer pattern on Craftsy this evening: There’s just about no shape/angle/curve/hook  to the front and back rises.   … Continue reading

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Alpha Testing: Measure, Walk, True

When a sewing pattern is released for sale, it has been  (hopefully) both Alpha and Beta tested: that means it has been tested by professionals and by amateurs.  You may have participated in Beta testing yourself, or read posts from … Continue reading

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Pattern Review: Brownie Goose “Junie”

My first Brownie Goose pattern!  Although I’ve purchased way too many pdfs over the past year, I still scan the new releases to see if there’s anything I “need”.  The “Junie” struck me as so very vintage-yet-fresh, simple-yet-clever….like something a … Continue reading

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A-line Skirt: “Slash-and-Spread” Method

…… In pattern drafting, you often want to add fullness to the shape of a pattern piece: The CORRECT way to add fullness is from WITHIN the pattern piece. The INCORRECT way is to tack on more to the OUTSIDE the … Continue reading

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