Quicker Fix for Coachellas

It’s snowing (a LOT) here in Massachusetts but in warmer areas people are anticipating spring, which means sewing shorts, yay!  Last summer I posted about how to correct the “crotch bunching” in the adorable Coachella shorts, by extending the crotch curves and trueing the inseams. Here is a simplified method (although if you are really interested in all of the analytics, they’re in the original post).

This isn’t technically perfect by any means (“real” grading uses grade-points and grading measurement scales), but it’s quick and easy, and results in better-fitting shorts. I’m going to show the least amount of pattern possible, under Fair Use Doctrine (the laws that make product review possible)….all you need is pattern page #3 . Here we go:

Cut out the front and back crotch shapes, glue them to printer paper. Gather a French curve, straight-edge, and pencil…also 3 colored pencils or highlighters:

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Looking at the pattern, you can probably see the three areas of inconsistent proportions...as the sizes increase:

  1. The crotch curve gets more shallow, so that will get corrected with a French curve.
  2. The rise lengths get shorter, so the lengths will be increased for the larger sizes.
  3. The  inseam angle gets more acute, so that will get trued with a French curve.

Here is how to make adjustment, one area at a time:

  • Back crotch curve
  • Back inseam
  • Front crotch curve
  • Front inseam

Start with the back crotch curve. Find size 6X, match up the French curve along the pattern crotch curve, and draw in the crotch curve extended by 1/2″ (highlighted in orange):

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Highlight the smallest size 6 Months crotch curve (no extension needed):

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Using a straight-edge, draw a line connecting the extended  crotch point in size 6X to the original crotch point in size 6 months:

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From now on, all of your crotch points will hit that line….depending on the size, the crotch curves all need extension (except size 6 months).


Sliding the French curve, follow the same shape to draw in the crotch curves for size 3T and size 12 (orange):

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Using the French curve, follow the same shape to draw in the crotch curves  for the in-between sizes 18 months, 5T, and 8 (highlighted in green):

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And finally, using the French curve, follow the same shape to draw in the crotch curves for the in-between-between sizes 12 months, 2T, 4T, 6, 7, and 10  (highlighted in blue):

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Next comes the back inseams. Size 6 months isn’t bad so start by trueing size 6 months to eliminate that acute angle at the hem, so that the hem can be stitched smoothly:

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Slide the French curve to mimic the same inseam shape for sizes 3T, 6X, and 12 (orange):

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Slide the French curve to fill in the same inseam shape for sizes 18 months, 5T, and 8 ( green):

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Slide the French curve to fill in the same inseam shape for sizes 12 months, 2T, 4T, 6, 7, and 10 (blue):

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Your back pattern is now graded with crotch curves that are proportionate in shape and size, and inseam angles that won’t tug and pull uncomfortably:

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Now the front crotch curve. Using a French curve, extend  size 6X by 1/2″:

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Using a strait-edge, connect the crotch points of sizes 6X and 6 months:

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The crotch curves will all finish at that diagonal line.

Slide the French curve to follow the same shape to draw in the crotch curves for sizes 3T, 6X, and 12 (orange)…the smaller sizes are easier to draw with a smaller French curve:

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Slide the French curve to follow the same shape to draw in the crotch curves for sizes 18 months, 5T, and 8 ( green):

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Slide the French curve to follow the same shape to draw in the crotch curves for sizes 12 months, 2T, 4T, 6, 7, and 10 (blue):

IMG_0458


Finally the front inseams. None of these angles are trued at all so start in the middle by trueing size 6X to eliminate that acute angle at the hem, so that the hem can be stitched smoothly:

IMG_0459

Slide the French curve to mimic the same inseam for sizes 3T, 6X, and 12 (orange):

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Slide the French curve to fill in the same inseam shape for sizes 18 months, 5T, and 8 ( green):

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Slide the French curve to fill in the same inseam shape for sizes 12 months, 2T, 4T, 6, 7, and 10 (blue):

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Your back pattern is now graded with crotch curves and inseams that are proportionate in shape and size, and won’t result in “bunching”:

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This is a good starting point to make your fitting muslin.  It’s such a CUTE style, and when it fits smoothly it’s a summer wardrobe staple!

 

 

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4 Responses to Quicker Fix for Coachellas

  1. Sarah says:

    I got my daughter’s size reasonably well adjusted last summer, but I’ll have to reprint this year since she needs a bigger size, and this method looks like it will be much quicker to apply the fix! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

  2. 7pinedesign@comcast.net says:

    Thanks I hope this is simpler and faster!

  3. Tibeca says:

    I need this in women’s sizes, pretty please!

  4. 7pinedesign@comcast.net says:

    You’re funny! Does the women’s size have the same issues? I imagine the fix would be the same…

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